
The
members of the Ioannina Jewish community, foreign diplomats and local
dignitaries take part in a memorial service inside Ioannina’s Kahal
Kadosh Yashan synagogue to mark 70 years since the Nazi deportations.
(Gavin Rabinowitz)
IOANNINA, Greece (JTA) — When the Jews of Ioannina gathered in their
whitewashed-stone synagogue over the weekend, it was to commemorate 70
years since the Nazis destroyed their community.
But the March 30 gathering also served to highlight a source of
present-day sadness: the withering of the unique 2,300 year-old
Romaniote Jewish tradition.
Ioannina, a postcard-pretty town in northwestern Greece with a
medieval fortress perched by a bright blue lake and surrounded by
snow-capped mountains, once was the center of Romaniote Jewish life.
Today, however, the community in Ioannina numbers fewer than 50 members,
most of them elderly. The last time the community celebrated a bar
mitzvah was in 2000.
The community’s leaders fear for its future.
“It is very difficult,” said Moses Elisaf, the community’s president.
“We try to do our best to keep the traditions, but the numbers are very
hard.”
“I don’t like to think about the future. It is very hard to be
optimistic,” he said, standing on the peaceful lakefront Mavili Square,
where the Nazis loaded the town’s Jews onto trucks to be shipped to
Auschwitz.
The Romaniote Jews, neither Ashkenazi nor Sephardic, emerged from the
first Jewish communities of Europe. Records indicate the first Jewish
presence in Greece dating back to 300 BCE. A ruined second-century BCE
synagogue on the Aegean island of Delos is believed to be the oldest
discovered in the Diaspora.
These Jews became known as the Romaniotes, speaking their own
language, Yevanic, or Judeo-Greek, a version of Greek infused with
Hebrew and written with the Hebrew script.

Auschwitz
survivor Zanet Nahmia-Sevi (center) lights a candle in memory of the
residents of Ioannina who were killed in the Holocaust. (Gavin
Rabinowitz)
Romaniote synagogues had a unique layout. They had their own
religious traditions and prayer book, the Mahzor Romania. Much of the
worship was in Yevanic, and the tunes, including for reading the Torah,
were heavily influenced by Byzantine music.
“The Romaniote tradition is hugely important. It is a pre-Diasporic
tradition based on the Talmud Yerushalmi,” said Zanet Battinou, the
director of the Jewish Museum of Greece and herself a Romaniote who grew
up in Ioannina.
But it is a community and a tradition that has long been in decline.
Following the expulsion of the Jews of Spain in 1492, many Sephardic
Jews found refuge in the Ottoman Empire that then ruled Greece. Soon,
major Sephardic communities sprang up, most notably in Thessaloniki,
known as the Jerusalem of the Balkans.
The preexisting Romaniote communities often were absorbed into the
larger, wealthier Sephardic Ladino-speaking ones that eventually became
largely synonymous with Greek Jewry.
“People don’t know about the Romaniote ancient Jewish community,”
Battinou said. “Thessaloniki was so massive and successful, it
overshadowed everything.”
It was only on isolated islands and in the rugged mountains of
western Greece that the Romaniotes remained the dominant tradition, and
Ioannina was the largest of these communities.
By the start of the 20th century, some 4,000 Romaniote Jews lived in
Ioannina. But amid the economic hardship and the turmoil that
accompanied the breakup of the Ottoman Empire, many joined their Greek
compatriots and emigrated.
Most went to the United States and Palestine, setting up Romaniote
synagogues in New York City and Jerusalem. Later, a third was
established in Tel Aviv. At the start of World War II, about 2,000 Jews
remained in Ioannina.
On March 25, 1944, the German Nazi occupiers rounded up the Jews of
Ioannina. As snow fell, they were put into open trucks and taken to a
nearby city. From there, a nine-day rail journey took them to Auschwitz.
The names of the town’s 1,832 Jews who were murdered are carved on
marble tablets on the walls of the synagogue. Among the dead were more
than 500 children under the age of 13.

One
of the marble tablets on the walls of the synagogue engraved with the
names of the 1,832 Jews of Ioannina who perished in the Holocaust.
(Gavin Rabinowitz)
Only 112 Ioannina Jews survived the death camps. Another 69 escaped
the roundup, hiding with Christian families or fleeing into the
mountains, where some fought with the Greek resistance. When they
returned to Ioannina, many found their properties looted and homes
occupied.
But it was not just the people who were wiped out. Centuries of tradition disappeared, too.
“Oral tradition is very dependent on the third generation — all the
grandfathers and grandmothers disappeared, were murdered, all at once,”
Battinou said. Among the few survivors was her grandmother Zanet, after
whom she is named.
“The youth who survived only perpetuated what parts they remembered,” she said.
While Ioannina was the largest and the most iconic Romaniote
community, several other small communities that identify with the
Romaniote tradition continue to exist in places like Chalkida and Volos.
But today, most of the remaining Romaniote Jews, like their Sephardic
compatriots, live in Athens, Greece’s largest Jewish community. Athens
has one Romaniote synagogue, built in 1906, but it is used only on the
High Holidays.
Meanwhile, the Romaniote Jews who moved to the United States and Israel have intermingled with the larger Jewish communities.

Youth
from Ioannina’s Greek community, in traditional dress, hold candles to
be lit in memory of the more than 500 children who were deported to
Auschwitz. (Gavin Rabinowitz)
Several Israeli Romaniotes attended the anniversary commemorations, drawn by family ties.
Yosef Baruch came with his brother and his uncle at the behest of his
90-year-old grandmother who survived the Nazis and moved to Israel
after the war. Baruch says he has never prayed at the Romaniote
synagogue in Jerusalem.
“It’s a tradition that was destroyed in the Holocaust,” he said.
None of the American Romaniotes attended the memorial ceremony.
In Greece, with the Jewish community so devastated after the war,
there was no place for separate communities. Most religious services are
now held according to Sephardic rites.
Today, only Cantor Haim Ischakis, who led the memorial prayer
service, knows how to chant the Torah in the Romaniote tradition —
something he learned from his father, also a cantor, who survived the
camps.
“I am the only one left,” Ischakis said. He is teaching his two sons,
but if they don’t take up his profession, the only examples left will
be recordings on YouTube.
In fact, the Internet is emerging as the most likely tool for
preserving Romaniote tradition. And the impetus for this online push has
come from an unlikely source.
The Canadian ambassador to Greece, Robert Peck, who was instrumental
in helping organize the commemorations, with Canada heading the
International Holocaust Remembrance Alliance, noted the lack of
available information about the Jews of Ioannina.
At his behest, the New Media Lab at Vancouver’s Simon Fraser
University designed a website detailing Ioannina’s Jewish history, and a
soon-to-be-launched app will let people explore Jewish sites in the
town and listen to survivor testimonies.
“I came to Ioannina and visited the synagogue, and I felt it was very
important to carry beyond the borders of Greece what Ioannina
represents, the legacy of the Jewish community here,” Peck said.
Still, the Romaniote Jews hope that through their efforts and
dedication, something of their legacy, their community, will survive in
the real world.
“It is very precious to me, and I try to pass it on to my children
and hope they appreciate that from their mothers’ side, they inherit
such a unique tradition,” Battinou said. “It is still alive, it is not
extinct, yet.”